The Master

Taking a peak into the kitchen of a Michelin starred dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong (Tim Ho Wan). 

Eating and Waiting in Hong Kong

One of my favorite things to do in Hong Kong is eat (especially after spending a couple of weeks in China). It has everything from high end fine dining to cheap/delicious street food. On my last trip to Asia, I had one free day in Hong Kong... so I decided to spend it exploring the various eateries that the locals enjoy. One thing to note is that Hong Kong's population is the 4th most dense in the world. Therefore, if you go to a popular restaurant (that doesn't accept reservations), you will need to be prepared to wait.

A trip to Hong Kong would not be complete without stopping at one dim sum restaurant. Therefore, I started off my day at Tim Ho Wan. Tim Ho Wan is the least expensive Michelin starred restaurant in the world. The waiting time at the original location in Mong Kok could take over 3 hours on a weekend. However, they have since expanded... and I only had to wait an hour. When you arrive, you need to check in with a hostess and she will give you a piece of paper with a number. You're free to wander off and shop in the connected mall... but make sure to come back before they call your number (or you will be placed on the bottom of the list). The most famous item on the menu (and my favorite) is the BBQ pork buns. They add a sweet glaze to the buns and then bake them... which gives it a crunchy but light texture. The inside is a mixture of barbecue sauce and tender pork. The rest of the food was also really good... but the hour wait was worth it for this one dish.

I ate so much dim sum for brunch, that I was not hungry again until later in the evening. Since I happened to be on the Hong Kong side, I decided to try a new/famous Ramen restaurant called Ichiran. Ichiran started in Japan and just recently opened up their first location in Hong Kong (in 2014). The restaurant is open 24 hours... and regardless of the time you go, there will always be a long queue. On this particular evening, I had to wait for 2 hours. If you plan to wait, it's not that big of an issue (Hong Kong does not have an "open container law... so I recommend picking up a few beers at the 7-11 around the corner). The menu at Ichiran is very simple... you only have one option: Tonkotsu Ramen noodles. It's a straight forward Japanese classic that Ichiran has perfected. You do have the option to customize the dish... and can specify the strength of broth, less or more garlic/onion, added vegetables, egg, and type of noodle. I would also suggest ordering kae dama, which let's you get a refill of noodles for just a few dollars (in case you have extra broth). Ichiran also has their own branded water that is served ice cold from your own personal tap. It was a very nice dinner.

After dinner, I went to Cong Sao Star Dessert. This is a very popular Hong Kong style dessert place... and I had to wait about 45 minutes to get inside (which gave me a chance to digest some food). This restaurant is famous for its sago soup (variation of tapioca pudding). Sago soup is not my favorite dessert, but it was nice to get a cool/refreshing treat on a warm night. I also recommend the durian pancake.

All in all, it was a very successful day of eating!

Paris - Cafe Nation

Many people go to Paris for the art museums, romance, architecture, or fashion. Those were the primary reasons for my first trip... however, when going back a second time, my motivation shifted. Yes, there are many ridiculously beautiful buildings/women in Paris... and the museums are the best in the world... but all I really cared about this trip was the food & wine. Therefore, I managed to schedule four meals per day. There is too much good food to only have three meals (especially since I had a limited amount of time).

I started my day with an espresso and pastry at a local boulangerie... and just sat there until the city came to life... blending in with the crowd. After a few hours of wandering around, it was time for lunch... and I looked for a cafe with a view. My lunches generally consisted of a 3 course meal + a carafe of wine. After lunch, I wandered around for a few more hours until I got thirsty. Depending on the time, I might have dinner #1 (small 1 course meal) while enjoying a glass of wine... or grab some cheese and a bottle... and find a spot with a view. This was usually around 6PM. After dinner #1, I made my way to the Seine to watch the sunset (usually on one of the bridges... each with a different perspective of the city). During summer months, the sun doesn't go down until around 10PM. It makes for some long days. After sunset, I searched out a restaurant for a proper 3 course meal + carafe of wine. My favorite area for dinner was Saint-Germain-des-Prés. It's relatively easy to get a seat if the weather is nice (because of all the outdoor seating)... but it can be difficult if the weather is bad and you don't speak French. I would recommend making a reservation if you think the weather might be bad (if possible, it is helpful to have a french person call to make the reservation that speaks french). Everything is open very late in Paris. Most of my dinners started around 11PM.

These are a few pictures I took of the cafes while wandering around. Keep in mind that the night photos were taken after a day of drinking wine... kind of surprised that some came out decently.

Food Culture in Hong Kong

Food is a very important part of the culture in Hong Kong (and China)... and it's one of the reasons why I enjoy visiting. You can get anything you want in Hong Kong (except good Mexican food... they still haven't figured that out yet). However, my favorite thing to eat is the local food (dumplings, hot pot, seafood, noodles, fish balls, etc)... and I also like visiting the street vendors. I've been lucky enough to become friends with some locals and I've been introduced to a lot of amazing food places (except the stinky tofu place... I didn't like that).

In the Asian culture, it's a big deal when people invite you to share a meal with them... and I definitely appreciate the warm hospitality.

Kenting Night Markets - "The Food"

(other than people watching) My favorite thing about the night markets at Kenting was the food... lots of fresh oysters, squid, sashimi, meat, chicken, fish balls, crabs, curries, various types of fish... and DEEP FRIED OREOs! The deep fried Oreos were probably unhealthy food items I've ever eaten... but they were amazing (so I didn't care). I almost went back for seconds.
The prices were also ridiculously low... you could have a feast for the equivalent of less than $10USD.

Kenting Night Markets - "The Scene"

Just down the street from where I stayed in Nanwan is the town of Kenting. During the day, the main strip is relatively quiet. A few shops might be open selling sunscreen or beachtowels and there also are some lunch places mixed in. However, when I first cruised by during the day, it was basically empty (a lot of the places were closed). I didn't have any desire to go back. However, one of the people I met while surfing convinced me to take the bus down there one night and have another look. It was amazing how this area transforms after the sun goes down. All of the stores open up, neon lights illuminate the sky, restaurants/bars fill with patrons, food vendors line the street on both sides (selling grilled squid, fish balls, korean bbq, grilled chicken, fried oreos, sashimi)... it's a bit of a overload on your senses. If you're ever in the area, I recommend spending a night there (the grilled squid was amazing).

The Chinese Restaurant - "Eating Zoo"

For those that have never been to a real Chinese restaurant (in China), the best way to describe it is as an "Eating Zoo". Chinese people like food to be as fresh as possible... and in order to guarantee that the food is fresh, they like to see it alive before it's cooked. Therefore, if you're ever in China and want to see live animals, just go to the nearest non-western restaurant. All of the animals will be on display for your viewing (and eating) pleasure.

These particular photos are from the "aquarium" portion of the restaurant. There were all sorts of marine creatures on display: giant fish, exotic fish, octopus, crabs, shrimp, lobsters, alligators, salmon, snapper, snails, etc..
(bonus video at the bottom showing a giant fish that was cut in half... the beating heart you see is proof that it's fresh and ready to eat!!)

mmmmmm.... Exotic Food Carts!

mmmmmm.... exotic food carts! (at a popular square in Morocco)

Getting Weird in Marrakech

Sites, sounds, textures, lights, and tastes of Marrakech!

Marrakech or Marrakesh, known as the "Ochre city", is the most important former imperial city in Morocco's history. The city of Marrakech is the capital of the mid-southwestern economic region of Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, near the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, being also the fourth largest city in Morocco.

Like many Moroccan cities, the city of Marrakech comprises both an old fortified city (the médina) and modern neighborhoods, the most prominent of which is Gueliz, for a total population of 794,620 and 1,063,415 in the metropolitan area. It is served by Ménara International Airport (IATA code: RAK) and a rail link to Casablanca and the north.

Marrakech has the largest traditional market (souk) in Morocco and also has one of the busiest squares in Africa and the world, Djemaa el Fna. The square bustles with acrobats, story-tellers, snake charmers, water sellers, dancers and musicians (who all want your money). By night food stalls open in the square turning it into a huge busy open-air restaurant. (Thanks Wikipedia!!)

My day in Marrakech started out around lunch time. I was lucky enough to experience the city with 3 cool people I met while staying at Surf Maroc (Julie, B, and Matt). This group definitely made the journey much more enjoyable. It was about a 3 hour bus ride from Taghazout to Marrakech... and the road was in surprisingly great condition.

Upon arriving in the city (and ditching a larger tour group), we immediately headed to a cafe in the souks. After eating lunch, I was on a mission to buy a leather messenger bag. Morocco has an incredible history in leather... being the first country to start working with it. As we were wandering around the market, we met someone that knew of a leather tannery and volunteered to take us there. After a bit of discussion, we decided to follow the strange man... and ended up in a tannery that was founded in the 11th century (amazing!). I have been to many tanneries in Asia (since I work with shoes), but this one was unlike any I had ever seen (or smelled). It was like going back in time. Everything was done naturally or by hand. For example, if you wanted to dye a material brown, you used sawdust... and if you wanted to dye a material blue, you used saffron. Pretty rad. After the tannery tour, we went to a shop that carried finished leather products... and I ended up purchasing an awesome messenger bag made out of camel hide (should last forever).

After the exciting tannery tour, we wandered around the souks a bit more. It's incredibly easy to get lost inside the maze. The best thing to do (if you get lost) is to go into a shop, buy something, and then ask for directions to get out (if you don't buy something or ask someone on the street for directions, they will lead you deeper into the maze and make sure you get more lost). It's literally like trying to walk around in a blizzard... you'll just keep going in circles. What I found interesting, is that the shopkeepers will actually kick you out of their store (and cuss at you) if you ask for too low of a price... or don't bargain correctly. I think one person in our group actually got kicked in the leg. Nonetheless, the haggling and bargaining is all part of the experience!

Eventually, we made our way back to the main square... which really comes to life at night. The center area turns into an giant outdoor food court and there were performers/merchants surrounding it. It's an incredible site. Unfortunately, we didn't have a lot of time to hang out in the evening (should have spent the night), but I was glad to see and experience all of the craziness.

Recommend visiting Marrakech at least once in your life!

The square at night.

The outdoor food court starting to come to life. Yes, there is meat hanging from the ceiling of those tents.

Motorbikes, cars, horses, camels, and people speed past.

Really good apricots and almonds at the food stands.

The tea kettles and tea pots were pretty incredible (should have bought one). The details molded into the sides were very intricate and unique. Everything was handcrafted in the city. Someone I was with bought something in this shop... so I was allowed to take a photo (if you don't buy anything, you can't take photos... or you run the risk of being kicked)

Delicious dried fruits!

The mosque in Marrakech. There are loud speakers at the top of the tower that call out the daily prayer 5 times a day. There is also a pole on the top that points to Mecca. 

Getting inside the streets and alleyways (this was actually a wider section). I saw everything from motorbikes to cars to horse and carriages to donkeys to bicycles speeding through the narrow corridors. Yes, judging by the crumbling brick, this is a rather ancient city.

Narrow corridor.

One pretty awesome thing about Morocco is that there were delicious/small oranges growing everywhere.

Right after I took this guy's photo, I kind of wish I hadn't... not good to upset a guy with a large knife.

Inside a leather tannery that was founded in the 11th century. They process everything from goat to camel. It's incredible to know that not much has changed in the 1000 years they've been manufacturing leather products. We were given a guided tour around the outside of this structure.

Not a place to go if you're vegetarian.

This was the first place leather would go after it had been cut from a goat or camel. They actually soak the hide in "pigeon poo"... which acts as a natural ammonia and cleanses it. However, as you can imagine, it doesn't smell very good. They actually gave us mint leaves to hold to our noises. 

The details and colors of the lanterns were really cool.

Inside a Riad in Marrakech.

All of these intricate details on the stone were carved by hand... very cool.

Pretty sweet door handle and textures.

Me!

Hope you enjoyed the photos! I know that my photos aren't the best representation of Marrakech (can't smell, taste, or hear them)... but hope I was able to give you a glimpse into the city.