Maldives - Foxy's Left

Across the lagoon and over an exposed coral reef was "Foxy's Left". When I first arrived on the island, I asked about this spot... and the boat captains told me that it needed a really big swell to be rideable (otherwise, it would just break on top of very shallow coral). Each day, I looked at the spot (never anyone out surfing)... and each day the boat captains would say "not big enough, too shallow, dangerous." However, the surf kept getting bigger each day... and by the 5th day of the trip, it was definitely rideable by anyone's standards. These are a few photos I took while gazing upon it from the other side of the lagoon.

I actually never made it out to surf Foxy's Left. The boat captains didn't seem to want to take us here... and there were plenty of other uncrowded/perfect waves (that didn't break over extremely shallow coral). Maybe I will try surfing it next time... until then, I can enjoy the pictures.

Maldives - Rip Tides

On the other side of the island I stayed on was a surf spot called Rip Tides. You could get to this spot by wading through a lagoon, walking over coral, and then paddling across a channel (which took a bit of time)... or you could take a 10  minute ride. I chose to take the boat.

Rip Tides is not that powerful of a wave (there were a few random barrel sections), but it is super playful. The wave breaks over a reef that feels like it is in the middle of the ocean. The first time I surfed here, it was a bit difficult to figure out where to sit (especially since there were long lulls between sets). However, when I did manage to glide into my first wave, I was all smiles. The wave "wedges up"when it hits the outer reef... and then wraps around to the inside section. After surfing the barreling right at Kandooma, it was nice to sit back and relax at this spot.

Maldives - Kandooma Right

Situated directly in front of my beach front villa (at the Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma) was a surf spot called "Kandooma Right". Kandooma Right is a fast/barreling reef break and offers adrenaline pumping rides. When I first arrived at the resort, I was mentally preparing myself for some beatings (the wave had quite a bit of power). However, after gliding into my first few waves, I was surprised at how easy the takeoff was. It helps having perfect waves to ride... but I think the lack of people and warm water were a bigger boost to my surfing ability. For some reason, waves are just easier to surf in warm water.

The Perfect Wave set me up with this amazing villa. However, as much as I loved the view, it was difficult to relax. Watching perfect/empty waves go unridden made me a bit restless (and caused me to surf 3-4 times per day). Luckily, there was a talented massage therapist at the spa!

Barreled

If you look closely, you will see the tip of a surfboard coming out of the barrel. I'm sure this guy was grinning for the next few days...

Finding the Right Key

One lucky surfer finds some shade on a draining section at the Cove.

The Long Walk to the Top

When good, the wave at Rincon is so long that you catch a wave in Santa Barbara and ride it to Ventura... yes, the county line does bisect the point. However, the point I'm trying to make is that it is a VERY long ride. After catching one of these rides, a surfer makes the long walk back to the top of the point to do it all over again! It's one of the places where your legs can get as much of a work out as your arms. 

Big Saturday - Part III

Two shots from "The Queen of the Coast" (aka Rincon) just as the wind had switched and the rain departed. The tide was quite low this evening... and the surf was big (but not huge). This was the probably the best I've ever seen Rincon break. Also, I think a lot of people were scared of the rain (or didn't know that the conditions became good)... and it was relatively uncrowded for a period of time. In my opinion, it's worth getting a little sick for waves like this.

Big Saturday - Part II

Mussel Shoals (aka Little Rincon) doing its best impression of its big sister just up the coast. It was amazing to watch the lines wrap in from around the pier. Some of the bigger sets would break just outside of the pier and steamroll their way down the point (the photos only capture about half of the wave's length). I wish this spot would break like this more than a couple times per year!

Big Saturday - Part I

A few weeks ago, a big storm came through Southern California (here is some video footage of waves crashing into Santa Barbara's pier). It was our first significant rain of the season... and it lasted for a few days. With the storm came strong winds and a plenty of rain. As the rain subsided, I decided to emerge drive down to the beach to take some photos of the waves. I was expecting to see "victory at sea" conditions. However, as soon as I got down to the beach, the winds shifted... and the stormy seas turned into nicely groomed groundswell. These are a few shots of a spot that rarely breaks. I think a few people might recognize the pier in the background.

Surf Taiwan

There's no surf in Taiwan?

When I found out that I would have a few extra days at the end of a business trip to Asia, I started thinking about hopping on a short flight to Bali (before coming back to the US). However, there wasn't enough time to go back and forth... and I had never spent time in Taiwan. Therefore, I decided to stay on the island and go exploring. My first thought was to go to Taipei... but after looking at some maps, it seemed like Taiwan would have decent surf in the southeast and east. I asked some friends that lived in Taiwan about my options down south... and their response was similar: "There's no surf in Taiwan". A few people thought there might be waves near Kenting, but were not positive. That didn't discourage me though... if there were no waves, I would enjoy a little beach holiday or go hiking in the mountains down south. Taiwan has an amazing high speed rail network... so it is very easy (and cheap) to navigate the island.

Prior to my departure, I contacted a surf tour agency (The Perfect Wave) that I had used in the past to visit Fiji and the Maldives. They were based in Australia and had extensive knowledge of the SE Asia region. The Perfect Wave put me in touch with Surf Taiwan and I made arrangements for some accommodations down south in Nanwan.

The Surf Taiwan crew was great! They were super accommodating and made me feel like I was part of their family (the constant supply of Taiwan Beer was also nice). My host had the entire coastline dialed in and knew where to go for certain conditions. I was thinking I would be lucky if there were 2 foot waves... but there were waist to head high waves everyday and the water felt like a bath tub (managed to get a mini-barrel one day that no one saw). Another great thing about Taiwan is the lack of crowds... I think my friends meant to say "no one surfs in Taiwan" (instead of "there's no surf in Taiwan"). Anyways, not many people read my blog... so I'm sure that this posting will not lead to a giant influx of surfers to Taiwan.

Hoping that I can come back again soon!

Taking the HSR from Taichung to Zuoying. The commute took less than an hour (wish we had these in the US!)

The beach at Nanwan... no surfing during Typhoons  :(

What you don't see is this image is the giant nuclear power plant to the right. Surfing this place kind of reminded me of surfing at San Onofre.

Surf check!

Yes, there is surf... now let's see how fast I can run down the hill and go through the forest.

Rivermouth.

The left... good for longboard.

Lonely A-Frame reef break.

Have to be quick on your feet to make the speedy inside section at low tide.

Adios Taiwan!... hope I can visit your beaches again!