Maldives - The Villa

Located on the Eastern edge of Kandoomaa Fushi was the villa I stayed in (while at the Holiday Inn Resort). It was situated directly in front of an amazing surf spot, Kandooma Right.... and provided a beautiful ocean view. The villa was 2 stories... the bottom floor was an open air living space and the top of was an (air conditioned) bedroom. This is the view from the water (just outside of the surf break). 

Maldives - Beautiful Sunrises

When I went to sleep each night in the Maldives, I purposely left the curtains undone. The villa I stayed in had a great view of the surf spot (Kandooma Right)... but it had an even more beautiful view of the morning sunrise. The light naturally woke me up each morning and the excitement of the great waves encouraged me to get out of bed. These are a few photos I took of those sunrises.

Maldives - Foxy's Left

Across the lagoon and over an exposed coral reef was "Foxy's Left". When I first arrived on the island, I asked about this spot... and the boat captains told me that it needed a really big swell to be rideable (otherwise, it would just break on top of very shallow coral). Each day, I looked at the spot (never anyone out surfing)... and each day the boat captains would say "not big enough, too shallow, dangerous." However, the surf kept getting bigger each day... and by the 5th day of the trip, it was definitely rideable by anyone's standards. These are a few photos I took while gazing upon it from the other side of the lagoon.

I actually never made it out to surf Foxy's Left. The boat captains didn't seem to want to take us here... and there were plenty of other uncrowded/perfect waves (that didn't break over extremely shallow coral). Maybe I will try surfing it next time... until then, I can enjoy the pictures.

Maldives - Rip Tides

On the other side of the island I stayed on was a surf spot called Rip Tides. You could get to this spot by wading through a lagoon, walking over coral, and then paddling across a channel (which took a bit of time)... or you could take a 10  minute ride. I chose to take the boat.

Rip Tides is not that powerful of a wave (there were a few random barrel sections), but it is super playful. The wave breaks over a reef that feels like it is in the middle of the ocean. The first time I surfed here, it was a bit difficult to figure out where to sit (especially since there were long lulls between sets). However, when I did manage to glide into my first wave, I was all smiles. The wave "wedges up"when it hits the outer reef... and then wraps around to the inside section. After surfing the barreling right at Kandooma, it was nice to sit back and relax at this spot.

Maldives - Kandooma Right

Situated directly in front of my beach front villa (at the Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma) was a surf spot called "Kandooma Right". Kandooma Right is a fast/barreling reef break and offers adrenaline pumping rides. When I first arrived at the resort, I was mentally preparing myself for some beatings (the wave had quite a bit of power). However, after gliding into my first few waves, I was surprised at how easy the takeoff was. It helps having perfect waves to ride... but I think the lack of people and warm water were a bigger boost to my surfing ability. For some reason, waves are just easier to surf in warm water.

The Perfect Wave set me up with this amazing villa. However, as much as I loved the view, it was difficult to relax. Watching perfect/empty waves go unridden made me a bit restless (and caused me to surf 3-4 times per day). Luckily, there was a talented massage therapist at the spa!

Maldives - Like No Place On Earth

It's difficult to describe the Maldives to someone that has never been. I can't provide an analogy or say that it's "like somewhere else". The truth is that it is really like no place I've ever been. Imagine a country that consists of over 1,100 tiny islands (no bigger than a large parking lot) spread out over 35,000 square miles of ocean. The islands are grouped together by 26 atolls... and they have an average ground elevation of only 1.4 meters above sea level (which makes it the lowest country in the world). As you can imagine, the locals are a bit concerned about global warming.

Just arriving in the Maldives is a bit of an adventure (especially if you're coming from the US). If you include total transit time, it can take about 30-40 hours just to get there. Do not bring alcohol or pork into the country (as they are Muslim). The resorts have special licenses to serve liquor... but you can get into some trouble if caught in the airport (also recommend that women cover up if going to a "local island"). The airport is located on an island close to the capital city of Malé. Upon arrival, there are no taxis, limos, or buses to take you where you are going... you need to hitch a ride on one a boat or sea plane. The island I stayed on was about an hour speed boat ride from the airport.

Life in the Maldives depends on the ocean. It provides food, transportation, and supports the huge tourism industry (diving, fishing, snorkeling, surfing, etc). The water is the clearest that I've ever seen. When sitting in 20+ feet of water, you can see straight down to the bottom. Because it is so clear, your depth perception gets messed up (looks much shallower than it is)... and this creates some confusion when surfing.

Anyways, this was one of the most memorable holidays that I've been on. The resort was very nice (Holiday Inn Kandooma Resort). I was situated on a tiny island surrounded by coral reefs. The food was delicious (endless fresh seafood buffets!!), sunsets were breathtaking, and there was a barreling right hand reef break directly in front of my villa. I couldn't ask for much more! I would like to thank The Perfect Wave for making this a reality.

More photos to come later!

Barreled

If you look closely, you will see the tip of a surfboard coming out of the barrel. I'm sure this guy was grinning for the next few days...

Finding the Right Key

One lucky surfer finds some shade on a draining section at the Cove.

The Long Walk to the Top

When good, the wave at Rincon is so long that you catch a wave in Santa Barbara and ride it to Ventura... yes, the county line does bisect the point. However, the point I'm trying to make is that it is a VERY long ride. After catching one of these rides, a surfer makes the long walk back to the top of the point to do it all over again! It's one of the places where your legs can get as much of a work out as your arms. 

Big Saturday - Part III

Two shots from "The Queen of the Coast" (aka Rincon) just as the wind had switched and the rain departed. The tide was quite low this evening... and the surf was big (but not huge). This was the probably the best I've ever seen Rincon break. Also, I think a lot of people were scared of the rain (or didn't know that the conditions became good)... and it was relatively uncrowded for a period of time. In my opinion, it's worth getting a little sick for waves like this.

Big Saturday - Part II

Mussel Shoals (aka Little Rincon) doing its best impression of its big sister just up the coast. It was amazing to watch the lines wrap in from around the pier. Some of the bigger sets would break just outside of the pier and steamroll their way down the point (the photos only capture about half of the wave's length). I wish this spot would break like this more than a couple times per year!

Big Saturday - Part I

A few weeks ago, a big storm came through Southern California (here is some video footage of waves crashing into Santa Barbara's pier). It was our first significant rain of the season... and it lasted for a few days. With the storm came strong winds and a plenty of rain. As the rain subsided, I decided to emerge drive down to the beach to take some photos of the waves. I was expecting to see "victory at sea" conditions. However, as soon as I got down to the beach, the winds shifted... and the stormy seas turned into nicely groomed groundswell. These are a few shots of a spot that rarely breaks. I think a few people might recognize the pier in the background.

A Walk on the Beach at Low Tide

Low tide sunsets are always the best. These are a few photos I took after a late afternoon surf session at Rincon. I love all the different shades of color.