Steamer Lane

Steamer Lane is one of the best surf spots in Southern California. However, since it's located up north in Santa Cruz, the water is a bit chilly (need a 4mm wetsuit year round) and there are "men in grey suits" (aka great white sharks) cruising around the line up. I don't think there's ever been a reported shark attack here... however, with seals chilling on the rocks, you know they are around.

One of the great things about Santa Cruz and Steamer Lane is that it faces south. Therefore, the northwest winds (which are predominant in this area) are offshore at most spots. By facing south, it also helps to groom the giant swells that march down the coast during winter. On this particular day, there was a southwest swell in the water. Some sets were coming in the head high+ range. It looked like a lot of fun... but it was rather inconsistant and bunch of people were sitting at the point. I ended up surfing further south at Pleasure Point instead.

Peru - "The Surf" - Pacasmayo

In disbelief that we have the entire place to ourselves.

Everyone I've spoken with claims that Chicama is the longest left hand point break in the world... however, some locals informed me that you can actually get a longer ride at Pacasmayo (which is a 45 drive up the coast from Chicama). It is RIDICULOUS that one country can have so many epic waves within a short distance.

One of the guests staying at Chicama Surf resort had the brilliant idea to organize a small dawn patrol mission to Pacasmayo. I was lucky enough to be included in the group and had an awesome time hanging out with them. The great thing about Pacasmayo is that it will always be about twice the size of Chicama... and on this particular day, the surf was 6-10ft. We had it all to ourselves for over 2 hours (unfortunately, there was no boat). Pacasmayo is a lot thicker and more powerful than Chicama. Also, the paddle out is a bit "sketchy"... you have to paddle through an area of jagged rocks to get to the point. When we first arrived, the tide was high... so most of the rocks were covered by a thin layer of water. It wasn't until later in the afternoon (on a lower tide) that we realized how lucky we were not to ding our boards or heads as we paddled out.

The cool thing about catching a wave at Pacasmayo is that when you're on the wave, it feels like you're going further out to sea. The wave just goes forever. I actually got longer rides here than Chicama.

(recommend clicking on the photos to see them in full size)

I couldn't capture the entire length of the wave with my standard lens. The wave starts behind the lighthouse and finishes to the left of my frame.

This guy offered surfers rides from the town (where the wave ended) to the top of the point. 

Talk about a sweet parking spot (our surf mobile is featured above) 

September 7, 2010

I'm not always the most patriotic of people, but I thought this picture came out really cool. Was taken at the lighthouse on Point Judith. I just really liked the colors and the brightness.