KenKen Photoblog: point break

Showing posts with label point break. Show all posts

Action Surf Shots!... at Chicama

So... based on these photos, it looks like I can actually kind of surf. These photos were taken in early May by a super friendly Brazilian guy staying with us at Chicama Surf Resort in Peru. The waves on this day were on the small to medium size... and this is me during the mid section of the wave (have about 300ft+ more to go). It was definitely not my biggest or best wave of the trip... just the only one that I was actually photographed. Luckily I didn't hit myself in the face with my board on this wave (which I managed to do twice this trip)... or have a bad wipeout.

Speed Blur!

Peru - "The Surf" - The Cape

Just around the corner from Chicama is another amazing point break called "The Cape". The Cape will always be bigger than Chicama, but it is usually less powerful (and less crowded). Local fisherman claim that you can actually get a ride from the Cape all the way through Chicama... which would equal a ride of about 2.5 miles long. I didn't see this when I was there.

I liked having the boat driver take me to the Cape first, where I would catch my first "warm up wave"... and then drift over to Chicama to catch my second wave (which is just out of frame to the right). The only problem surfing at the Cape was the gigantic jellyfish floating around.

If you look out into the distance, you can see a little stump of an island. There is actually another point break off that island, but no one seems to surf it.

(recommend clicking on the photos to see them in full size)

Peru - "The Surf" - Pacasmayo

In disbelief that we have the entire place to ourselves.

Everyone I've spoken with claims that Chicama is the longest left hand point break in the world... however, some locals informed me that you can actually get a longer ride at Pacasmayo (which is a 45 drive up the coast from Chicama). It is RIDICULOUS that one country can have so many epic waves within a short distance.

One of the guests staying at Chicama Surf resort had the brilliant idea to organize a small dawn patrol mission to Pacasmayo. I was lucky enough to be included in the group and had an awesome time hanging out with them. The great thing about Pacasmayo is that it will always be about twice the size of Chicama... and on this particular day, the surf was 6-10ft. We had it all to ourselves for over 2 hours (unfortunately, there was no boat). Pacasmayo is a lot thicker and more powerful than Chicama. Also, the paddle out is a bit "sketchy"... you have to paddle through an area of jagged rocks to get to the point. When we first arrived, the tide was high... so most of the rocks were covered by a thin layer of water. It wasn't until later in the afternoon (on a lower tide) that we realized how lucky we were not to ding our boards or heads as we paddled out.

The cool thing about catching a wave at Pacasmayo is that when you're on the wave, it feels like you're going further out to sea. The wave just goes forever. I actually got longer rides here than Chicama.

(recommend clicking on the photos to see them in full size)

I couldn't capture the entire length of the wave with my standard lens. The wave starts behind the lighthouse and finishes to the left of my frame.

This guy offered surfers rides from the town (where the wave ended) to the top of the point.

Talk about a sweet parking spot (our surf mobile is featured above)

Peru - "The Surf" - Chicama

View from Chicama Surf patio. This was the view I had every afternoon after 3 hours of surfing in the morning.

Had feet torn up by reef, gave myself 2 black eyes when surfboard hit me on separate occasions (same eye), got stung in the face by a jellyfish, body is exhausted, face is sunburn, missed flight connection in Lima (was stuck there for 10 hours)... if I stopped there, it might seem like my holiday to Peru was a disaster. However, it was actually one of the best surf trips I've ever been on. I stayed at a resort on Peru's Northwest coast called Chicama Surf. This resort is situated right above the longest left hand point break in the world- Chicama. The general rule of thumb for Chicama is that the bigger the wave, the longer the ride. When I was there, you could get rides over a half mile long on the sets (with an occasional barrel on the takeoff or on the inside)... locals claim to have ridden waves over 1.5 miles long.

It's funny how great waves, great food, and a friendly atmosphere can make you forget any problems you might have had.

The resort at Chicama was very nice... friendly service, good food, and comfortable lodging. Since the wave was so long, they actually had a boat in the water that would pick you up after each ride (and take you back to the point). The first day I was there, I was anti-boat (thought it was cheating). However, the current was very strong and the walk was very long... therefore, I succumb to temptations after the first day and started using the boat. This might be one of the first trips where my legs got as much of a workout as my arms.

Another thing you'll notice from the photos is an absence of people in the water. Regardless of how famous Chicama is (within the surfing community), not many people make the journey down there. On the smallest day of the trip, it got a little crowded (happened to be a Brazilian holiday)... but nothing too bad. The wave is so long that it helps spread the crowd out.

(recommend clicking on the photos to view in full size)

Looking at Chicama from one of the 2nd floor balconies at Chicama Surf.

The guy walking below didn't use the boat... over a half mile walk to the point.

As you can see by the lines of white water, the wave peeled forever.

Maine Coastline

I took this photo on the northern most end of York Beach (in Maine) where a giant point sticks out into the ocean. I like to imagine that if the swell was big enough, came from the right direction, and the tide was right... a wave would break the entire length of the point. I don't think that this is actually possible, but it's fun to imagine!